• IMPORTANT: do not cauld the outside corners to the gutter fascia at this time. (this will be taken apart later)
• Slide the corner piece onto one of the gutter fascia pieces and screw together with sheet metal screws.
• Slide another gutter fascia piece into the other end of the corner piece and screw down.
• continue until all 4 gutter fascia pieces are joined together with the 4 outside corner pieces.
  

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• Position your frame exactly where it will be installed.
• Square your frame by measuring diagonaly from corner to corner. Ajust frame until measurements are equal.
• It may be helpful to use a large framing square to double check the corners for square.
• Measure 4' back from each outside corner, and 10' to center, mark the frame (for attaching column brackets later) and mark the ground. This is where you will dig your post holes.
• Take frame apart and dig all 4 post holes
• All holes should be at least 12in. in diameter and 18 inch deep (or to frost depth). (Local code requirements may be different.. if local code requires other specifications, follow thier specifications.)
  
  CAUTION: Do not put concrete in holes at this time. DO NOT INSTALL POSTS ON TOP OF A SLAB. ( if the posts have to be set through a concrete or other type of slab that is already in place, the surface of the slab will have to be broken at the 4 post hole locations. Post holes can then be dug as above.)
  
  

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• Get out two posts and one beam (Cee or I beam depending on kit ordered). Move post to holes where the tallest part of cover will be. Taking into account the post hole depth - cut post to your desired cover height (8' minimum on tall side). Determine height of opposite post - top height should be level across the top and cut. (one way to do this is put the post you cut in the hole, plumb and hold, have another helper put the uncut post in the opposite hole, plumb and hold. Rrun a string level from the cut post to the uncut post and mark where level).
• Note: Cutting post - Our installers use a plywood blade turned backwards on circular saw. Be sure to have eye protection, long sleeves and gloves as the debris coming off the post will be hot and sharp.
  
• Lay posts by holes as above and attach post to beam as in the diagrams. (Be sure to leave room from the end of the beam and the post to allow for the gutter fascia.)
• Raise post and beam into post holes
• Re-check level across top of beam (be sure to have helpers holding each post)
• Make any adjustments necessary to level.
• Notch three 2' x 4' s - cutting to length as needed - in order to support posts.
• Mix and pour cement into post hole
• Plumb post.
• Pour cement into the other post hole
• Plumb post.
• Make sure 2 x 4 supports are firmly supporting post and beams.
• Let cement set for 24 hours before continuing with installation
  
  Note: for safety, cover the other open post holes you dug to prevent injury from someone accidentally stepping in the holes.
  
  
  
  

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• Measure and cut posts for your second beam. Second post and beam set should be 1' lower than the one already up for proper water drainage.
• One way to determine post length - measure down 1' from the top of the post that is already up. Have a helper plumb and hold a post in the outer post hole on the same side. Run a string level from your mark to the helpers post. Mark the new post where the string level shows level. Remove post from the hole, measure down one foot (1') from the mark you made on the post. Cut post. Repeat for post on the other side. (there are many ways to get this measurement, use any way you are comfortable with)
• Cut, notch and attach beam to posts.
• Place post & beam in holes, plumb posts and make sure beam is level. Adjust as needed.
• Square the post/beams to each other. (use the same method used for the frame.
• Use the three temporary supports that were used on the other post/beam and brace the new one.
• Caulk two outside corner pieces as shown. Slide the corner pieces onto one of the gutter fascia pieces(B) and screw together with sheet metal screws.
• Repeat with a second fascia gutter.
• Have a helper hold up a side fascia/gutter (A)(without corners installed) from one post/beam to the other. (see diagram on left)
• Do the same on the other side
• Bring up a fascia/gutter (B) that you attached the corners to and attach to the side fascia/gutters (A) that are being held in place.
• Do the same with the remaining fascia/gutter (A)
• Check square on the assembled fascia and adjust as needed.
• Measure, attach and raise the third post/ beam combo, level, plumb, brace in place and attach to fascia.
• Now we are ready to install the roof panels
  
  

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• V Panel, W Panel and Flat Panel are positioned and installed in the same manner
• Recheck the square on all fascia frame.
• Place marks on the front and back fascia in the proper panel increments to keep from misaligning panels - an extra inch is included on the first mark to allow for the side fascia. (24" panel installation shown)
• With lock side of panel facing side fascia, drop end of first panel into fascia (A) and slide in to stop.
• Lower Panel (B) onto lip of opposite fascia.
• Move panel (C) so that front end of panel hangs over the inside lip of front fascia (this allows water to run into the front fascia).
• Move panel (D) so that female side of lock is against wall of fascia (see panel to gutter diagram).
• Position panel using the marks you made earlier as a guide.
• Attach panel with the self tapping screws to side fascia, front and back fascia. and beams. Leave off the last screw attaching the male lock to the fascia to make it easier to install the next panel. (see diagrams on left)
• Once your first panel is attached place your second panel into position.
• Important: After placing each panel into position to lock with previousely laid panel, check to be sure the panel ends are even with each other. After the panels have been locked together it is difficult to slide the locked panels for adjustment,
• V and W panels usually snap together by pushing down the female onto the male lock.
• Flat panels: position panel in place to the installed panel. Raise free end up and so the female lock fits into the male lock. Lower panel and lock into place..
• Use your marks to make sure panel width stays even. Screw panels together, to fascia and to the three beams (leave the last screw out as you did on the first panel).
• Repeat procedure until all panels have been installed. (last panel may have to be trimmed to size depending on the width of your cover.)
• Plumb and level the non-cemented posts.
• Mix cement and pour into the post holes.
• One more step to go!
• Note: These are general installation guidelines for locking the panels into place and may not be the exact procedure for installing the panels on your patio cover.
  
  

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Scupper / Downspout - Flashing

• Scuppers are supplies with all units, optional downspout kits may be used instead of scuppers.
• Cutting holes and attaching scuppers on the bottom of the fascia/gutter may be easier done before the fascia is attached. however, they can be easily installed after the unit is up. One scupper / downspout per 100 square feet of cover is sufficient.
• Flashing (purchase at local hardware store) and caulking is required at the attachment points to prevent leaks.
  
  

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